Crochet has a rich history of creating warm, cozy, and stylish garments. One of the most iconic designs in the world of crochet is the raglan sweater. Its unique construction, characterized by its diagonal seams extending from the neck to the underarms, offers a flattering fit for all body types. Today, I’m thrilled to introduce you to a modern take on this classic design: The Double Crochet Crop Raglan Sweater.

Understanding the Raglan Crochet Sweater

The raglan design is a favorite among many because of its seamless construction. In crochet, this design is achieved by increasing stitches at four points, creating a ‘raglan line’. This method ensures that the sweater drapes beautifully over the shoulders, offering both comfort and style.

Diving into the Double Crochet Stitch

At the heart of our sweater pattern is the double crochet stitch. This stitch is one of the foundational techniques in crochet, known for its versatility and the beautiful texture it imparts.

How to Make the Double Crochet Stitch

1. Yarn over (wrap the yarn over your hook).
2. Insert your hook into the desired stitch.
3. Yarn over again and pull up a loop. You should now have three loops on your hook.
4. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops on the hook.
5. Yarn over one last time and pull through the remaining two loops. Voila! You’ve completed a double crochet.

Front and Back Post Double Crochet: The Secret to Perfect Ribbing

Ribbing adds a professional touch to garments, giving them structure and elasticity. In crochet, one of the most effective ways to achieve ribbing is by using the front post and back post double crochet stitches.

How to Make the Front Post Double Crochet (FPDC):

1. Yarn over.
2. Instead of inserting your hook into the top of the stitch, you’ll insert it from front to back around the post of the stitch from the previous row.
3. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
4. Complete as you would a regular double crochet.

How to Make the Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC):

1. Yarn over.
2. Insert your hook from the back to the front around the post of the stitch from the previous row.
3. Yarn over and pull up a loop.Finish off as a standard double crochet.

Introducing: The Double Crochet Crop Raglan Sweater Pattern

This sweater, with its cropped design and puffy sleeves, is a blend of contemporary fashion and classic crochet techniques. The ribbing on the waist and cuffs, achieved using the FPDC and BPDC stitches, ensures a snug fit while adding a touch of sophistication.

For those eager to embark on this crochet journey, I’ve provided a free pattern for sizes XS/S. And if you’re looking for other sizes, the finalized pattern is available for purchase. Additionally, for visual learners, a step-by-step YouTube tutorial accompanies this pattern to guide you through each stage of the creation process.

Happy crocheting!

Materials

YARN: DROPS LOVES YOU 7, color 28, yarn group A  (23 – 26 stitches) / 5 ply / sport

Size XS/S: 550 g / 19,5 oz, 1870 m / 2050 yds

Size M/L: 650 g / 23 oz, 2210 m / 2420 yds

Size XL/2XL: 700 g/ 25 oz, 2380 m / 2610 yds

Hook:  5 mm/G-6

Yarn Needle, Scissors, Measuring Tape, Stitch Markers

Size

XS/S

Length (in cm): 36

Waist width (in cm): 45                                                                                        

Stitch Key (US terminology)

ch = chain

yo = yarn over

st = stitch

sts = stitches

sl st = slip stitch

sl sts = slip stitches 

sl st flo = slip stitch in front loop only 

dc = double crochet 

2 dc = 2 double crochet stitches in one stitch also V stitch

dc2tog = double crochet two stitches together 

fpdc = front post double crochet 

bpdc = back post double crochet 

sp = space

Specialty Stitch & Technique Key

None.

Notes

• Work with 2 strands of yarn.
• Foundation chain counts as row 1
• You will start working around the neck in joined rounds (it’s a raglan style sweater, one piece, no sewing), leaving the holes for the sleeves/armholes, working on the body and finishing with the sleeves. 
• It’s crocheted from top to bottom. 
• Ch 2 doesn’t count as a stitch. 
• I recommend you watch my YouTube tutorial if there are any uncertainties. 

Instructions

Round 1: Fdc 99, join: yarn over, insert hook in the two loops on the bottom of the previous fdc (as you would want to make another fdc), insert hook into the 1st chain that you made with 1st fdc, yarn over and pull through both chains (the beginning and the end of the foundation chain), you have 3 loops on your hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (you just made another fdc). Sl st in the first fdc.

Round 2: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc, ch 1), work 1 dc in the same st (V st made), 1 dc in each of the next 19 sts (back), 1 V st in the next st, 1 dc in each of the next 29 sts (sleeve), 1 V st in the next st, 1 dc in the next 19 sts (front), 1 V st in the

next st, 1 dc in the next 29 sts (sleeve), sl st in the 2nd ch of starting ch 3, sl st into ch 1 sp.

Round 3 – 8: Ch 3, work 1 dc in ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of  the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of the next sts, sl st in the 2nd ch of starting ch 3, sl st into ch 1 sp.

Round 9: ch 3, work 1 dc in ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of  the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 2 dc in each of the next sts, sl st in the 2nd ch of starting ch 3, sl st into ch 1 sp. 

Round 10 – 20: Ch 3, work 1 dc in ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of  the next sts, 1 V st in the next ch 1 sp, 1 dc in each of the next sts, sl st in the 2nd ch of starting ch 3, sl st into ch 1 sp.

Separate Body and Sleeves

Body

Round 1: ch 2 (doesn’t count as a stitch), work dc across to the 1st ch 1 sp, yo, insert hook into the ch 1 sp, skip over the sleeve section to the next ch 1 sp, insert hook, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook (you just made a double crochet). Work double crochet across to the next ch 1 sp, yo, insert hook into the ch 1 sp, skip over the sleeve section to the next ch 1 sp, insert hook, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook (you just made a double crochet). Sl st in the 1st dc of the round to join.

Round 2: ch 2, dc into the 1st and across. Sl st into the 1st st to join.

Band

Round 1: ch 2, fpdc in the 1st st, *bpdc, fpdc* repeat from * to the end of the round, finishing with a bpdc. Sl st in the 1st st to join the round.

Repeat round 1 until round 8.

Round 9: ch 1 (counts as a stitch), sl st flo across. Sl st into ch 1 to join.

Finish off. 

Sleeves 

Round 1: Attach the yarn in the very 1st unworked stitch on the armpit. 

Ch 2, dc in the same stitch and across, finishing in the very last unworked stitch. Joining the round: yo, insert the hook in the stitch where you just made the last dc, insert the hook in the stitch where you made 1st dc of this round, yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook, yo and pull through 2 loops on the hook (you just made another dc). Sl st into the 1st st to join the round.

Round 2 – 14 : ch 2, dc across. Sl st into the 1st st to join the round. 

Round 15: ch 2, dc2tog in 1st 2 sts and across. Sl st into the 1st st to join the round.

Round 16: ch 2 , dc across. Sl st into the 1st st to join the round. 

Sleeve band

Round 1 – 7: ch 2, fpdc into the 1st st, *bpdc, fpdc* repeat from * to the end of the round, finishing with a bpdc. Sl st into the 1st st to join the round.

Round 8: ch 1 (counts as a stitch), sl st flo across. Sl st into the ch 1 to join the round.

Finish off.

Repeat the instructions for the other sleeve. 

Neckline

Attach the yarn in the center of the neckhole on the back, ch 1 (counts as a stitch), sl st flo across. Sl st in ch 1 to join the round. 

Finish off.